Colchester: Britain's oldest recorded town, still living within its Roman walls

Colchester's claim to be Britain's oldest recorded town is not marketing hyperbole but historical fact: Camulodunum, as the Romans knew it, was the first capital of Roman Britain, founded as a colonia — a settlement for retired legionaries — after the conquest of AD 43. The Norman castle keep, built directly atop the Roman temple of Claudius, is the largest in Europe, and sections of the original Roman walls still stand to a considerable height in several places around the town.

The town wears its antiquity with a directness that is quite different from the polished heritage presentation of more visited historic cities: history here surfaces suddenly in an alleyway, a pub cellar or a garden wall, and the Dutch Quarter's timber-framed houses recall the Flemish weavers who settled here in the sixteenth century. Colchester is a town in the middle of rediscovering what it has always been.

Heritage & History

Colchester Castle houses the outstanding Colchester Castle Museum, whose Roman collections are among the most significant in England. The Roman walls encircling the old town are substantially intact and walkable in long sections. Balkerne Gate, the largest surviving Roman gateway in Britain, still stands at the western edge of the walled town. The Dutch Quarter, centred on West Stockwell Street, preserves a remarkable collection of sixteenth- and seventeenth-century timber-framed buildings associated with the Flemish refugee communities who transformed Colchester's wool trade.

What to See & Do

• Colchester Castle and Museum — The largest Norman keep in Europe, built over the Roman temple of Claudius, housing a world-class collection of Roman Britain artefacts.
• The Roman Walls and Balkerne Gate — Substantial sections of the original Roman town walls survive above ground level, with Balkerne Gate — the largest Roman gateway in Britain — still standing at the west end.
• The Dutch Quarter — A network of timber-framed streets recalling the Flemish weavers who settled here after religious persecution — one of the most atmospheric historic quarters in Essex.
• Firstsite Gallery — A striking contemporary arts centre in a curved golden building, presenting modern and contemporary art exhibitions of national quality.
• Colchester Natural History Museum and Holly Trees Museum — Two smaller museums within the castle park covering local natural history and domestic life in a Georgian town house.

Food & Drink

Colchester is historically synonymous with its native oysters — among the oldest cultivated oysters in Britain, farmed in the Colne estuary — and several restaurants in the town celebrate this heritage. The High Street and its side streets have developed a varied independent café and restaurant scene, and the town's student population supports a lively informal food culture.

Parks & Outdoors

Colchester's Castle Park, within the Roman walls, provides a green heart to the old town with the castle at its centre. The River Colne runs to the north of the centre and the Colne Valley opens into attractive Essex countryside within a short distance. The coast at Mersea Island — renowned for its oysters and sailing — is accessible within twenty minutes.

Events & Culture

The Mercury Theatre is Colchester's main producing theatre and one of the more respected regional venues in the East of England. Firstsite Gallery has significantly raised the town's visual arts profile since opening in 2011. Colchester also has a strong music scene and an active events calendar tied to its Roman heritage, including the annual Colchester Heritage Festival.

Practical Tips

The Castle Museum warrants at least two hours, and the guided tour into the castle's Roman vaults is highly recommended. Walking the surviving Roman walls is free and an extraordinary experience — allow at least forty-five minutes for a circuit of the main sections. Mersea Island, reached across the Strood causeway (check tidal times), offers some of the freshest oysters in England direct from the beds.

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